Zweigelt is Austria’s most common red variety, a reliable thirst quencher that’s rarely given the attention lavished on the more noble Blaufrankisch, Riesling, and Gruner Veltliner grapes. Every now and then, someone takes it more seriously, with delicious results. Manfred Felsner’s vines are in the heart of Kremstal, along a south facing ridgeline in the village of Gedersdorf. He believes – like most winemakers – that most of the work of making great wine happens in the vineyard, so that’s where he spends most of his time. He works with old vineyards, and wherever possible, he preserves the oldest vines. His Zweigelt therefore has more character and depth than usual. The nose gives plum and black raspberry, flinty earth and pepper with a touch of roasted coffee. The palate is medium bodied, fresh and inviting, with notes of blackberries, black plums, smoky granite soil and white pepper. A note of rosewater lingers on the finish alongside black fruits.