Eugenio Gatti is from the Monferrato hills of central Piedmont, the seventh generation of his family to make wine. His winery La Miraja is devoted to the distinctly local grapes of the region. One of those is the relentlessly cheerful Grignolino. A curiosity today, Grignolino was a favorite of Piedmont’s aristocracy as early as the 13th century. As late as the 1880s, Grignolino was often more expensive than Barolo, cherished for its elegant texture and fresh fruit flavor. It is a tricky grape to grow, with more seeds and thinner skin than most grapes, factors that demand extra care at harvest. Unlike many growers in the 20th century who abandoned the grape for Barbera or Nebbiolo, Eugenio Gatti is prepared to take that extra care. He presses his wine gently, ages it in concrete, and produces this drop of ruby red sunshine. Aromas of fresh raspberry, strawberry, lavender, orange zest and white pepper. The palate is taut and vibrates like a violin with fresh acidity and flavors of cranberry and raspberry. Delicate tannins remain on the finish, offering the structural foundation to support roasted chicken, polenta with anchovies and a lot of leafy greens on top, or caprese salad.