There was a time not so long ago when red wines were supposed to be black, thunderously structured drinks and often sweet. Mavro just means black in Greek, and many grapes so named take their name seriously. The Mavro of Kalavrytino was one of these famously  intense black wines, but since Tetramythos is making wine for the more delicate and scrupulous modern palate, this version is handled gently, with a light press and short maceration. It’s still plenty intense, but it’s actually fun to drink. The nose gives pomegranate, black cherry, passionfruit, cinnamon toast, prosciutto and salt. The palate is bouncy, with passionfruit and mango tangerine. Then tannins sneak into the picture, delicate yet drying. Bitter herbs and tropic thunder fruit on the finish.