Muscadet is a wine made of stone and salt. France’s Breton coast traditionally begins at the mouth of the Loire, and while the modern departments put Nantes in the Loire-Atlantique, it is still a city full of buckwheat Galettes, oysters, fish stews and Celtic motifs. Meanwhile, the jumbled granite shore that lines the coast of Morbihan and Finistere are broadly similar to the bedrock underneath the vines of Clisson and Les Gorges, two of Muscadet’s finest emerging Crus, where Stephan and Vincent Perraud manage Domaine des Cognettes. Les Deux Terres is a selection drawn from both these prized sites, and brilliantly captures the scent of granite (in Clisson) and Gabbro (in Gorges) and brine in the Atlantic air. Aged in traditional glass-lined underground tanks with the lees, this Muscadet doesn’t waste a drop of character from the vineyard. Aromas show flint and stony minerality, lime zest and lemon juice and salt. The palate is bright and crisp yet creamy textured, with lemon curd and tangerine fruits that lead to a lip-smacking salty finish. For classic results, try with oysters, but most seafood dishes and galettes and even a well roasted chicken are within range.