The Tenuta Migliavacca is a farm. The name translates to ‘home of a thousand cows’. In reality, they have about fifty cows, but they do have several thousand vines in the northern part of the Monferrato hills overlooking the Po River. The majority of their vines are Barbera, the most common variety here, and their vines have been tended biodynamically since the 1964, when Luigi Brezza made the choice to convert out of concern for the safety of his vineyard workers. Today, Francesco Brezza makes the wine naturally, and aims for balanced, savory wines with judicious use of only neutral, only large oak barrels. The result is a wine that is unmistakably Barbera, but with a twist. Aromas of rosewater pastille, dried cherry, hay bale, anise, and a rustic earthy note. On the palate, there is rhubarb, raspberry, and tart cranberry amidst the chalky, dusty tannins. Like all Italian wines but especially this one, this is best with a meal. Hearty mushroom dishes, pastas featuring beef, or a salty lentil soup.