Some sort of Biotteau has been growing Chenin Blanc grapes in Saint-Jean-de-Mauvrets for four generations. Pascal’s vineyards are on a dividing line between two distinct terroirs in Anjou, the chalky limestone tuffeau that gives the central Loire its elegant, high toned minerality, and the black schist of Anjou Noire that belongs to western Anjou and the Pays Nantais, where weight and depth and mineral punch live. Thanks to the work of importer Mary Taylor, we get to enjoy this precociously balanced Chenin Blanc for a remarkable price. The nose here is textbook Chenin; peach and apricot, honeycomb and potpourri, orange peel and sagegrass. The palate is vivid and textural, with notes of lemon curd and apple, and bright acidity, leading on to lemon zest and schist-y minerals lingering on the finish. Fans of classic Savennieres will find something to admire here, beyond the much more reasonable price. This is a wine with enough weight and intensity to stand up to an impressive array of dishes, especially things from the ocean or the river.