It is fair to ask why there is a vineyard alongside the Danube in southern Hungary planted to a mixture of Kekfrankos, Merlot, and Sagrantino. The first of those grapes belongs there, the second on that list is a well traveled grape that might be planted on the moon in a few years, but what on the green pastured earth is Sagrantino doing in Hungary? The simple answer is that Zoltan Heimann likes it there. Having played a central roll in saving the Kadarka grape from extinction, he has followed up by reviving the pre-phylloxera style of Siller, a type of wine that came close to extinction during the Soviet era. It is essentially an early harvest of red grapes pressed after just a short period of a day or two on the skins. A little darker and more structured than rose, but crisp and refreshing. The Sagrantino in particular – a grape capable of inky black red wine – gives this Siller a savory accent of garden herbs and soil between all the fresh raspberries, red roses, and citrus that fill out the rest of the wine. This is a silky and satisfying beverage for savory fare.