Mario Bagella is one of the foremost winemakers on Sardinia, famous for his elegantly handled Cannonau and Vermentino. This Olieddu cuvee is made from the obscure indigenous variety Cagnulari. It's a clone derived from Gracciano grapes brought to the island from Spain during its Aragonese period. This wine is a bruiser. Deep black fruit baked into a compote, a shovel full of smoky volcanic earth, and framed with wrought iron tannins. This is the sort of wine you bring to a barbecue where the whole pig is roasted in a pit. This is the wine you bring when the stew has been cooking since 6am.