In the hills of Bertinoro, the Gabellini family makes Sangiovese. This is not Chianti, which has always made these red wines something of a challenge to sell, but if Romagna is going to make Sangiovese this good, maybe it’s time to change that. The terroir here is a complex mix of Italy’s signature clay-limestone marl with sediments brought by the nearby Po river over millenia. The Adriatic sea is about a half hour away by car, but the plain below is so flat you can see it from the vineyard. The steady seabreeze that filters through these hills gives Tenuta La Viola’s wines an even temper and complex aromas. Cranberry, raspberry, dried roses, tobacco and tangerine zest. The palate is silky, with firm tannins and brisk acids wrapped around red fruits, cranberries, allspice and cinnamon on the finish. The Oddone cuvee is named for a legendary figure from Bertinoro who liked to party so much that he is remembered today even though he lived in the 11th century. For best results, we recommend a group of friends and a stack of pizzas.