Nine years underground, in a century-old 2,400L barrel, in a cold cellar in Austria, not terribly far from the Czech border.  The near decade in barrel has transformed this wine into something else, something more. Grüner Veltliner, often bulky or unwieldy, has, here, become elegant, perhaps not lean but lithe, glossy and airy, nearly levitating and alive. This is Grüner at its most perfumed, sweet apples and pears, nearly caramelized while also mineral – there is that woolly sweetness that shows in Chenin Blancs with some age.