The most famous and expensive Nebbiolos are generally celebrated for their complexity, but Nebbiolo’s best quality might be something else—clarity. This is something the Reverdito family has understood since the 1960s, when Silvano Reverdito began buying up parcels of vines in Barolo. When brother and sister Michele and  Sabina began making wine in 2000, it was from the perspective of farmers, and their approach to making wine stood on two non-negotiable precepts. Great wine can only come from great grapes, and wine is something for regular people to enjoy, even if it comes from famous places. Their farming is impeccable, and the winemaking is unadorned, straightforward, and aims to preserve that clear bell-ring of fruit at the core of any great Nebbiolo. There’s strawberry and raspberry here, a little orange and fennel seed, before the palate offers more red and orange notes with anise and tannins that build slowly towards the finish, firm but never in the way of the fruit. This isn’t a razzle-dazzle type wine, this is Bach’s Cello Suite: simple, insistent, and satisfying.