Gianluca Viberti looks towards the old traditions of Piedmont to make his wine at Casina Bric. Scion of the famous Viberti house, 460 Casina Bric is his own independent project, named for and planted on the highest elevation vineyard in Barolo, with an average altitude of 460 meters. He farms his grapes sustainably and interferes as little as possible in the cellar, to produce unadorned but elegant and complex Nebbiolo. His Barolos are excellent, but in another nod to tradition, he makes this simple, hearty Vino Rosso from his own vines and ages it in wood, then cement, then glass bottle for a total of 18-24 months, depending on the vintage. He does not charge very much for this Nebbiolo, even if it whispers Barolo in every glass. The nose gives ripe black cherries, tobacco, clay and violets, anise and balsamic reduction. The palate has Nebbiolo’s close cropped tannins, with flavors of cherry and orange oil and rich marled clay that stays fixed all the way through the finish. This is crazy good value, all that’s missing in this Piedmont classic is the label.