When you need a reliably hearty red wine, Cotes du Rhone is always the ticket. When you really need a hearty red wine, look for Cotes du Rhone from the newly elevated village of Rasteau. The wines of Rasteau have had their own appellation since 2010, because they achieve the sort of broad shouldered weight generally only found in Chateauneuf du Pape and certain Gigondas properties. Camille Cayran’s Rasteau is made at the nearby Cave de Cairanne from vines on the sunniest slopes in the Rhone, a typical blend of Grenache with dollops of Syrah and Mourvedre. It smells of razzleberry pie, chocolate,  sage, thyme, and savory – both the herb and the adjective. The palate is full throttle, like a cooked strawberry pie rimmed with dried herbs and dusty soil notes. Tannins and acidity are both gentle, and the finish echoes the nose and palate with a menu of dried fruits. Serve on cold nights with warm stews, on sunny days with smoked meats.