The Ardeche is a relatively unspoilt corner of the Rhone, where nature parks draw people from all over France for hiking, camping, and whitewater rafting. It is also something of a playground for winemakers, who leave behind the staid confines of the Cotes du Rhone to make wine without rules. Jean-Regis and Magdeleine Chazallon are two vignerons who have made a home for themselves at Chateau de la Selve, a small castle surrounded by biodynamically farmed vines. All the wines they make have a certain playful spirit, but the purest expression might be in this Petite Selve, a self described  “UFO in the Rhone region” that “cultivates the paradoxes”. It is also a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault that offers an aromatic wallop of strawberry, black raspberry, earth, bay and tomato leaf. The palate is textured like a classic, saucy Cotes du Rhone, but with more acidity that keeps the cherry, strawberry, and orange fruit flavors fresh. There is a neat savory note of herb-scented underbrush that runs throughout and lingers on the finish. Serve with hearty stews, burgers, and pizzas.