Roussillon is making a lot of noise for an exciting crop of new winemakers reimagining a region long known for syrupy, alcoholic reds and not much else, but it’s worth remembering that there have always been certain vignerons in Roussillon making a more elegant style of wine – pinotent, or ‘resembling Pinot Noir’. Domaine Vaquer traces back to Pierre Vila, who purchased this vineyard just outside Banyuls in the gently rising foothills of the Pyrenees. His son-in-law Fernand Vaquer was a national rugby champion who “helped a bit in the vineyards”, but his son Fernand Jr. decided to stick with the wine gig. Today, the domaine is in the hands of Frédérique Vaquer, and this charming cuvée of Carignan, Grenache, and Syrah is named for her late husband, Bernard. This edition offers a menu of aromas including blackcurrant, leather, roasted meat, sage and rosemary. The palate is full but wrapped gently with velvety tannins, and there's a splash of orange oil with the stewed black cherries, rocky soil and coffee beans that appear on the finish. There’s enough acidity to keep the wine flowing, but this is still best with steak or stew.