Briona is a small and unassuming town in the Colline Novaresi region of northern Piedmont. Just north of town, a bank of hills begins to rise out of the Po River Valley. These hills eventually turn into Swiss Alps, but here, they are gentle slopes covered in forest and the occasional vineyard. Francesca Castaldi’s ancestors came here in the 1700s and have been making wine ever since. When she took over the family vineyards in 1997, she revitalized the vineyards to take better care of the oldest vines, and introduced modern equipment for gentler handling of the grapes. This cheerful and bright red Nebbiolo is the gentlest wine she makes. The clear shade of ruby is a strong hint of things to come; backed up by aromas of cranberry and raspberry, gooseberry lemon zest, and white pepper. The palate shimmers with acidity and clean, fresh flavors of strawberries and cherries and raspberries, lightly peppered with delicate tannins. Pull this wine out of the refrigerator and pair with light salads, charcuterie spreads, and caprese salad.