Jean-Marie Granier is the mayor of Estezargues, and his Domaine la Montagnette is one of the most prominent wineries of the village on the wilder, western side of the Cotes du Rhone appellation. The four Communes of Domazan, Estézargues, Rochefort-du-Gard and Saze all fall into the Signargues “villages” title of Cotes du Rhone that stands only for red wine. Jean-Marie’s version is farmed mostly organically, a mix of half Grenache, one third Syrah and one sixth Mourvedre. It is among the richest wines of the area, with a heady nose of black pie cherries, figs and blackberries. The palate is overflowing with cooked and dried fruits like blackberry and fig, with a bit of burnt orange peel and a strong note of garrigue-scented earth. There’s old growth tannins in this everyday wine, but acidity runs through it like a cool brook on a hot day, keeping the wine fresh enough to match with food. Whether you make Steak frites or a burger with fries, this is one for hearty meals.