Southwest France is a beautiful tapestry of what local winemakers officially call “modest” grapes. These are the dozens of very local varieties that have survived from ancient times, persevered through the commercial era and even thrived in Bordeaux’s long shadow. Growers like Marc Penavayre have preserved this native stock of vines with quiet dignity, and in places like Fronton – just outside Occitania’s capital city of Toulouse – he makes one of the southwest’s iconic wines from the Negret grape introduced by Roman soldiers thousands of years ago. The Pounjut is a particular clone of Negret that offers the same deep black fruit and peppery earth, but in a lighter structured wine and at low alcohol levels that remind us of a delicate red from Jura or the Loire. Here we get aromas of wild Maine blueberry and blackberry, iron-rich clay and violets with a dash off pepper. The palate is clean and clear, with strong fresh fruit notes framed by gentle tannins that build slowly towards the finish that lingers with earth and pepper. Serve this with simply prepared pork dishes, mushroomy stews, and charcuterie spreads.