There are several varieties called Trebbiano, and it turns out it makes a world of difference which one you’re drinking. It doesn’t help that Italy can’t resist a little contradiction. Trebbiano Abruzzese is the best variant and the pride of Abruzzo, but the grape makes up a wide minority of Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, most of which is actually the inferior Trebbiano Toscano. In Umbria, Trebbiano is also a common grape, but the sort grown around Spoleto is understood to be the best. It turns out that – probably – an enterprising medieval farmer – perhaps on his way to pilgrimage in Asisi – brought some proper Abruzzese Trebbiano as a gift, and the vine is now at home in Umbria, where Antonelli makes one of the most popular and truest examples of this excellent wine. Aromas of peach, orange, white strawberry, and flinty earth lead into a full bodied palate crackling with acidity and  creamy orange sorbetto, oregano and thyme flavors. The finish is refreshing and simply begs for a roasted chicken with two lemons.