While the Itata Valley is only painted in broad brush strokes legally, Dominio del Cuarzo’s wines are notated as Vinos del Pueblo, essentially a village appellation. Ñipas is a town directly on the Itata River, where the basalt rich silt has very little clay, which Filipe believes is just right for Pais because it keeps yields down and makes for more concentrated aromas. Aromas like tropical fruit punch, guava and mango and dragonfruit. Light and spicy and bouncy and crisp. This is the sort of red that defies the hard boundaries between “red” and “white” flavors, and behind the crashing oceanic wave of fruit, there’s no shortage of volcanic minerality and tannins like fine brick dust.