Falanghina is a tantalizing grape variety. It has been planted in Campania for at least 2700 years, and for most of that time it was considered Campania’s finest grape variety, but time and fashion have been unkind to this noble variety. For decades, the grape has been turned into cheap bulk wine that offers a reliable scoop of mango but not much else, and other Campanian grapes have all taken their turn in the spotlight. In the picturesque village of Guardia Sanframondi, Pasquale and Maria Morone remember what Falanghina is really about. Together with their children Giovanni and Eleonora, they make it the right way, working by hand in the vineyard and without any chemical intervention in the winery. The result is awe-inspiring. The wine opens with aromas of lemongrass and lime leaf, tangerine and pear and orange blossom and lemon zest. There’s basalt and flint and a whiff of lanolin. The palate has that rich texture Falanghina is famous for, but it comes fresh and salty, with a dash of white pepper together with orange and mango, all clean and vivid thanks to high acidity. If this is the future of Falanghina, count us in!