Closeries des Moussis Haut Medoc 2022

Closeries des Moussis Haut Medoc 2022
Laurence and Pascale’s story begins with another couple, Michel and Stéphanie Theron, who were given a lease on a half hectare parcel of pre-phylloxera vines by neighbors who believed in their potential. After several decades working as some of Bordeaux’s first real garageists, they passed on the legacy (and the lease) to Laurence and Pascale, two women from – respectively – Gers and Cognac. They both had backgrounds in winemaking, and had foolish ideas about farming in Bordeaux and wanted to put them into practice. In 2009, they had their chance. Farming organically from day one, and biodynamically since 2011, Laurence and Pascale noted changes in the vineyards, vines became less vigorous, requiring less leaf trimming, yielding smaller crops of more concentrated fruit. The wines too, changed: “In 2014, we started to notice that the aromas were more direct. It’s not a question of complexity necessarily, but rather freshness and this sense of directness. We look for wines that are digestible - easy to drink - that make your mouth water and that have length.”
Starting with that tiny, ancient parcel, the couple have just a little less than 2 hectares today. Their vineyards are all ‘recovering’ from conventional farming vintage by vintage, and are all too isolated, too small, or too inconveniently planted for large Chateaux with their tractors to gobble up. All their wines come from single plots, and in their quest for more freshness and acidity they tend to pick a week or two earlier than their neighbors. Fermentation and aging in the cellar takes place in a mix of amphorae and large, neutral barrels in their small garage.
It is rare to taste a wine so classic yet so a-typical at the same time. This Haut Medoc has all the scents of classic Left Bank Bordeaux, tobacco and blackcurrant and pepper spice and rich earth, yet the texture is brilliantly deft – with elegantly carved tannins that hold the palate without squeezing, wrap around the rich, smoky flavors like gift wrapping, and there is acidity shining a gentle light on everything.
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