Catherine Maisonneuve and Mathieu Cosse came to Cahors in 1999 with long established winemaking careers in other parts of France. Catherine worked at Bordeaux’s Leoville Las Casses, and Mathieu trained at Chateau La Coste in Provence. In Cahors, their vineyards are on the upland limestone Causses, plateaus once densely planted to Malbec before the ravages of Phylloxera, frost, and war reduced the appellation to a shadow of what was – in the 14th century – considered France’s finest wine. Today, Casse Maisonneuve is part of a renaissance in Cahors, making a finer grained, more elegant and more diverse style of Malbec. Le Combal has the iron-scented power and foursquare structure of traditional Cahors, but the blackcurrant and cherry fruit shines fresh and pure through notes of pipe smoke, clay, black rose petals and bitter herbs. The tannins are a densely planted hedge but not a thorny one, carrying flavors of pastille, currant, and black plum. Acidity is enough to keep the wine from becoming a chore, and the finish features roses and dried fruits. Roast beast, steak, and duck are all on this menu.