Adrien Berlioz is among a small group of talented winemakers redefining wine from Savoie. As recently as the 1990s, growers in Savoie wanted only Jacquerre and Gamay made as cheaply as possible to serve at the local ski resorts. Never mind the potential of the steeper, smaller vineyards planted before the age of tractors. When Adrien Berlioz began making wine in 2006, there simply was no such thing as fine wine from Savoie. Now there is, because Adrien, his cousin Gilles, and people like Michel Grisard and Frederic Giachino have created it with one stunning vintage of Mondeuse, Altesse, or Jacquerre at a time. Today, most of Adrien’s wines are for special occasions, made in miniscule quantities and commanding high prices, but we’re happy to have La Pepie, an everyday Jacquerre made in the mold of traditional Jacquerre – but better. The nose offers lemon, quince, tarragon, wintergreen, and a hint of granite. The palate is perfectly balanced (at a delightfully fresh 9.5% abv), with flavors of pineapple, pear, and salt. There’s acid woven throughout this beam-of-sunshine-bright wine, but it’s never sharp or biting. Serve with a simple charcuterie board with firm cheese on it.