An evening meal over a long table, buzzing with happy conversation. There’s Beaujolais on the table, and probably some kind of duck dish too. Outside, the vineyards are just about ready to harvest, but for now it is dinnertime. This is making wine at Domaine J.F. Pegaz, headed by Jean-François, the sixth generation winemaker. In his term at the head of his family’s domaines, he has converted to organic farming on some of the steepest and highest vineyards in and around Mont Brouilly. More than that, Pegaz holds Terra Vitis certification, a more expansive program that demands both organic practices and social responsibility, engagement with the local community, and ethical treatment of workers. Pegaz employs only viticulture students, houses them on the property, and shares group dinners during harvest. Put another way, the Pegaz family is working to preserve both the land for the future, and the community that will farm it. This well-rounded Beaujolais-Villages is the perfect introduction to the domaine’s wine. Drawn from a vineyard across the street from the Brouilly Cru, this wine never touched oak barrels between the vine and the bottle. Fresh limestone-infused black cherry, raspberry and orange oil notes come with a dusting of cinnamon and dried leaves. The palate is wrapped in long, silky tannins and offers hints of raspberry and rhubarb. Partial carbonic maceration ensures the wine maintains a bright, cheerful tone even with a surprisingly full body.