For fans of great Sauvignon Blanc who are also fans of great value, the Coteaux du Giennois is the name to know. The region is a long stretch of the Loire’s limestone-marl right bank north of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume. There are no dramatic hillsides here, just gently rolling countryside and underappreciated wineries like Domaine de Villargeau. Winemaker Marc Thibaud has gained a strong following among the staff at L&E for his clean-cut, powerfully structured Sauvignon Blanc. His wines are organically farmed – no mean feat in this frosty corner of France – and ferment from native yeast. Every year, Villargeau’s wines have all the flinty freshness the Giennois is known for, and nearly as much depth and weight as much more expensive Sancerres.