The Portuguese wine industry as a whole is closer to its pre-commercial roots than the wine industries of other European countries. For the most part, Portuguese grapes are still grown in small family plots not much bigger than the backyard, and most of the wines are swallowed up by giant, faceless cooperatives with little regard for the quality of the produce. Natalia Jessa tries to offer a different choice for growers across northern Portugal with her Gota label. She partners only with growers who work sustainably and never irrigate their vines, and blends wines like this Vinho Verde, far better than the price demands because the ingredients are top quality. Two classic Vinho Verde grapes Arinto and Loureiro, combine for a nose of key lime pie, green apple and lemon with an unmistakable scent of salt – a reminder that all the vineyards that go into this wine are within 10 miles of the ocean. The palate is light, packed with citrus and apple and fresh acidity that leads into a gently mineral finish with lemon and lime blossoms left behind. Set this one up with spring salads or shrimp gumbo.