The Denois family makes an impressive array of everyday sparkling wine from the southernmost of France’s sparkling wine appellations in Limoux. Their still wine is for every other day, when the meal and the occasion call for a heady still wine blended from classic Languedoc white grapes like Vermentino, Bourboulenc, Grenache blanc and (checks notes) Sauvignon Blanc. All the farming at Denois is done organically, and very little sulfur is added at the winery. Jean Louis is something of a rabble rouser, and while he’s an important figure in Limoux, he’s not generally keen on following the rules. His dedication to farming half a dozen grape varieties not allowed in Cremant de Limoux is just one symptom of his restless nature. The Garrigue Blanc has everything a Mediterranean white wine should have: good weight and clean-cut lines thanks to the acidity Vermentino and Bourboulenc provide, alongside ripe fruit notes of melon, orange zest, with granite ground minerality that lingers through the finish.