The Itata Valley in Chile has a surprising claim to fame as the home of the oldest commercially viable grape vines found anywhere on earth. Itata is a paradise for grape vines, who feel all the benefits of both nearby mountains and ocean. Since Itata is well south of Chile’s more cosmopolitan regions, invasive “modern” grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are still rare, and people like Leo Erazo have come to preserve and champion the region’s greatest treasure: 150-300 year old Pais and Muscat vines that produce wines like no other in the world, leaking out their ears with volcanic minerality and bracing fresh fruit flavors. Leo believes that the best dry-farmed ancient vineyards found in the Itata Valley require as little stylizing as possible to showcase the deep expression of their terroirs, and that terroir shines in this elegant Pais, with aromas of licorice, red cherry, raspberries, and smoky soil. The palate offers more juicy red berries, dusty tannins and feathery acidity and a long, pleasant, clay-scented finish. This little triumph will keep good company with squash, yams, and poultry of all sizes.