The Cotes de Forez is the southernmost appellation of the Loire Valley, a little bit west of the city of Lyon. Far closer to Beaujolais and the vineyards of the northern Rhone, this distant outpost of of the Loire is dedicated wholly to Gamay. Gilles Bonnefoy began La Madone in 1997 with a few scattered plots, and over the last 25 years has grown to 11 biodynamically farmed hectares on granite laced clay and basalt soils. He works organically in the vineyard and without sulfur in the cellar. This Sur Volcan comes from black volcanic basalt, a note that shines through in the wine, giving aromas of iron ore and black pepper alongside bright black cherry, blood orange, and dried leaves. On the palate, the Sur Volcan is polished and silky, full bodied with vivid acidity bringing life and lift to red and black berries, dusty clay and smoked orange peel. A distinct note of marionberries lingers on the finish. It’s a little triumph of Gamay, with enough silky, juicy texture to keep the meal moving if you’re having roast chicken, goose, duck, pheasant, guinea fowl, partridge, or any other bird that’s traditionally served in November.