It is curious how often the most interesting winemakers live in relative obscurity, far outside the limelight and protected from the winds of fashion. Sometimes their wineries set trends and leave the press to their neighbors, intentionally or otherwise. Marina Marcarino is one of these winemakers. She actually set two trends that today are changing the face of wine in Piedmont. She took over her family estate in the 1980s, in a time when women were hardly ever considered for the job. At the same time, she turned the vineyard organic by 1987, when that was totally unheard-of. As a bonus, her Barbarescos are spectacular! Deeply aromatic, elegant and suave textured, with classic Nebbiolo flavors of deep black cherry, dried strawberry and boysenberry, fresh tilled soil and anise. Drink this now because it's fantastic, but if you have room to put a couple aside, the Campo Quadro is far from done developing.