Sixteen years after achieving biodynamic certification, Fernando Paiva’s Quinta da Palmirinha is still one of only a handful of wineries in Portugal to qualify. That he farms in the famously wet and mild Vinho Verde region makes it all the more impressive. He actually takes it a step further, substituting chestnut blossoms – a natural antioxidant – for sulfites. In a region dedicated to large scale cookie cutter farming, Palmirinha’s vineyards have rows of basil and mâche between vines. Shoots are tied to training wires with palm leaves grown on the estate. With all this intense focus on details and thoughtful farming, is it any wonder that the resulting wine is at once delicious and unlike any other Vinho Verde we’ve ever had? The aromas alone set this wine in a class of one: candied lemon peel, gardenia, almond blossom, turkish delight, allspice, white vermouth botanicals from thyme and mint to lemon balm and marjoram, with just a dash of salt. The palate comes like a sharp wave of apple and cara cara orange, waxy pear, and incense smoke. The finish bursts with lemons, granitic minerality, and brine. A great match for clam or scallop dishes, but this wine is simply stunning all on its own.