There are a lot of cheerfully inexpensive white wines from Vinho Verde, but in the last ten years we’ve seen and tasted as the region has quietly reinvented itself. Those fizzy, genre defining and generally flavorless wines of the past are steadily losing ground to powerfully mineral wines with texture and often impressive complexity. In this new world of Vinho Verde, it’s even more impressive when something stands out from the crowd like this one from Quinta do Eremizio and winemaker Antonio Monteiro. Farmed organically except in extreme vintages and raised in steel tanks with no additives, this is a blend of Loureiro and Treixadura and a brilliant example of what this region has to offer. After a nose of lime and green apple, white cherry, salt and acacia flowers, the palate is crackling with acidity and salty minerality, with flavors of more crisp green apple and lime zest. Fresh and clean through the  finish. Serve with tinned fish, fish and chips, or clams in butter.