It is curious that Roditis is considered an esoteric variety in the west, because it is Greece’s most common white variety. It is grown throughout Greece, from the mountains of northern Greece and the plains of Thessaly through the Peloponnese and several islands. It is one of those varieties – like Trebbiano in Italy – that suffers comparison to other grapes precisely because it is so useful. Roditis is hardy and yields a dependably heavy crop, and therefore never demands much attention from growers. This is a bit of a shame because even with just a little care and attention, it can make a remarkable wine. Stamnaki means “wine jug” in Greek, and Denthis is a cooperative partnership between small family growers and the American import house Eklektikon. Farming is done organically and the wine is made in cool stainless steel tanks to preserve the acidity and freshness of the wine. What results is an inexpensive, clear and fresh sipper with more character and intensity than most in this mold. There are aromas of apple, peach, lemon zest, flint, and granite minerality, followed by a palate with clean cut acidity, juicy lemon, chevre , mediterranean herbs and a dash of salt on the finish. A versatile food wine that’s particularly well fit for dishes featuring feta, lemon, and couscous.