Harald and Daniela Frank are the latest of ten generations of Franks making Gruner Veltliner in Austria’s Weinviertel. The vineyards are near the town of Herrnbaumgarten, just a few miles south of the border with Czechia. It’s both cold and dry in this part of Austria, a rare and ideal combination for fine Gruner Veltliner. The grapes get to hang a little longer on the vine without losing acidity, and the relative lack of humidity is a big help for a grape that’s susceptible to rot. Together with the family’s attentive viticulture, the result is a beautiful, even keeled Gruner with a classic nose of preserved lemon, orange peel, white pepper, green apple and meringue. The palate gives lemons, limes, and green apples before sticking the landing in a cloud of white pepper and lemon zest. This is priced like a humble everyday wine for sausage, poultry, freshwater fish, and vegetable stirfry; but since it’s such a versatile food pairing wine it’s a great choice if you’re invited to a dinner party and don’t know the menu.