Sumoll is the most uniquely Catalan grape in the world. About thirty years ago, the variety teetered on the brink of extinction. Too difficult to grow, with unreliable yields and uneven ripening. Also, it would have been financially irresponsible to even try to work with this grape many people even in Barcelona had completely forgotten. We are lucky that a few dedicated Catalan winemakers – among them the folks at Can Sumoi – nonetheless brought the grape back. It is still a pain to work with, and often enjoys the fruity support of Garnatxa in blends like this one, but the grape offers rare aromas and flavors, making a Catalan wine that’s very hard to mistake for Spanish. Aromas here start with sweetfern (a delicious-smelling shrub native to New England; it’s a useful shorthand for resinous, spicy, and slightly earthy aroma with a subtle green and citrus note), currants, blueberries, oregano and thyme. The palate is silky and refreshing with some heft, filled with marion- and huckleberries, clay and floral notes that linger on the finish. Pair with traditional Catalan small plates, it will go with most of them.