Arneis does a lot of heavy lifting in the Langhe. It is the only white variety in a corner of Piedmont where red wine is the overwhelming favorite, but it keeps a place at the table through sheer force of personality. Arneis at its best is like AC/DC in the form of wine, with a proud 1980s era mullet of gardenia and muskmelon fruit, oranges and lemons and acacia blossoms that fly like soundstage sparks, and thunderous rhythmic acidity that keeps everything on the beat. Matteo Correggia inherited a vineyard in Roero in 1985. Whether he was literally listening to Back in Black in the cellar, or simply inspired by the album, he began to do things differently than his father and neighbors. He was one of the first growers in Roero to work organically, to sell his wine outside Italy, and he was one of very few to focus his energy on Arneis. Though he passed away in 2001, his wife Ornella and son Giovanni still make one of the most important wines of Roero, this shocking bright neon flavored power chord of a wine that leaves touches of apple blossoms and flinty minerals behind on the finish. Serve with white pizza or creamy pasta.