The very best Barbera shine like the Dark Crystals of Jim Henson’s 1982 classic. Vibrant purple, bursting with power and black fruit and a core of acidity that resonates at a steady, irresistible frequency. Matteo Molino and his sister Martina took the reins from their father Mauro in 2004, and have continued their father’s work with Barolo, Langhe Nebbiolo, and this utterly charming Barbera. Their vines are not particularly famous but they’re very well tended according to organic principles. They do not have a long family history of winemaking, but they have oodles of talent, and there’s no end to the ways you can enjoy their versatile wine. Aromas of black rose, crushed black cherries, limestone clay and violets lead to a palate of succulent cherries, iron-rich soil, and orange peel. The texture is full bodied but clearly defined by silky tannins and burbling acidity. For food pairing, most hearty, oven roasted dishes will do, but there may be no better choice than Bolognese.