The Gialla place is the house where Marco Porello makes his range of classic Piedmont wines for impressively low prices. His vineyards are in Roero, Nebbiolo’s third home, after nearby Barolo and Barbaresco. The soils are a mixture of clay and sand that prompts wines with a softer, more approachable texture. Marco farms organically, and in the cellar wines ferment spontaneously before age in used oak barrels. His simple techniques line up neatly with the much ballyhooed movement back to lower intervention and more traditional, pre-industrial methods. He does this without the fanfare that often accompanies this sort of transition, but the wines shine with authentic Piedmont flavors. For the Nebbiolo, we get aromas of bright red cherry, anise, dried herbs and vanilla bean. The palate is clear and bright, with a strong note of strawberry and cherry that finishes with dusty textured tannins and tarry soil. Serve with meaty pastas and polentas.