Domaine Cazes, more than 100 years after it was founded in 1895, became one of the first fully certified biodynamic domaines in Roussillon in 2004. Sheep graze the vineyard, keeping the grassy groundcover under control. For an outfit this size, with the full breadth of Roussillon’s wines from Rivesaltes and Banyuls to crispy and fresh whites of Vermentino drawn from more than 200 hectares of vineyard, the cellar work is remarkably spare, with no additions of yeast or chemical corrections so often found in similarly sized cellars. Samsó is a Catalan name for Cinsault (it is also often assigned to Carignan, because grape variety names are nothing if not confusing). This is one of the Mediterranean’s less heralded grapes, often used as the foundation for Provençal rosé, but it is just as capable of inky black wines full of savor. Cazes’ version is somewhere between these two. The nose is a starburst of smoked meat, violets, black pepper and black raspberries, before a remarkably fresh and bouncy palate that carries intense raspberry, cherry and clay flavors with a dash of orange. An ideal wine lightly chilled for a picnic spread, patatas bravas, tinned fish, and steak tartare.