Of all the wineries in the Willamette Valley, Brooks is the one most dedicated to Riesling. When Jimi Brooks made the choice to focus on the grape in 1998, when everyone else in the valley was planting Pinot Noir as fast as they could, it was an oddity. Today, Brooks is just one among half a dozen wineries specializing in the grape, but they are still probably the most focused, with between 10 and 15 separate Rieslings bottled each year, from the very dry sort like this one to the very sweet dessert wines at the other end of the range. This is the perfect season to try this wine, because Riesling is perfectly tuned to match hams, roasted birds, squashes, and risottos that fill out the autumn menu. Look for aromas of lime and lemon, strawberry and honeycomb, before a palate balanced on a rocket blasting into the sun. Rich textured but buzzing with acidity, with citrus and Rainier cherry notes and a powerfully dry, mouthwatering bright finish.