Lionel Osmin stands at the head of an ambitious cooperative dedicated to preserving and renewing the traditional wines of southwest France, bringing the spotlight to places like Marcillac that deserve more attention. Marciallac is a tiny village tucked into a valley of the Massif Central, and was once an important center for coal mining. Vineyards proliferated to give local taverns something to serve thousands of coal miners who moved to the area. When the mines closed, most of the vignerons moved away, but those who remained have preserved a wine unlike any other in France. The local Fer Servadou grape offers a remarkably spicy nose of black pepper and black plum, blackberry and lavender. The palate is framed with black earth notes, black berries and currants and pepperoncini. There are tannins enough for pot roast, acidity enough for a simple charcuterie board, and a lingering earthy finish.