In the small town of Capmany, there are a lot of wineries and restaurants with the last name Pages. The family has been here, just a few miles from the French border, for a long time. Celler Maria Pages is one of the oldest wineries in Emporda, and they make correspondingly old-school wines from Emporda’s traditional – if atypical – blend of Spanish, Catalan, and French varieties. This is the northernmost bit of Spain, a valley tucked into a bend of the Pyrenees and just a few miles from the Mediterranean. Originally founded in the eighteenth century, not a heck of a lot has changed in the intervening centuries. Wines age in barrel for 10 to 12 months before release, and the intention is to make sturdy, everyday red with old Spanish soul. The Serrasague is a blend of Garnatxa, Ulle de Libre (a Catalan edition of Tempranillo) and Cabernet Sauvignon, and offers up aromas of dried cherries and currants, woodspice, vanilla bean and potting soil. The palate is dense packed with woodsy tannins, black cherry, vanilla and cocoa powder, with touches of cedar that linger on the finish with black fruits. Serve with hearty squash dishes, risottos, and stews with game in them.