The Valle de Yerri is in the northernmost quarter of Navarra, just a little way southwest of Pamplona and not terribly far from the Bay of Biscay. Where much of Navarra is hot and dry, it is much cooler here, at elevation where alpine winds cool the vineyards. For a valley so close to Rioja, there’s remarkably little wine grown here, which had always seemed a shame to Alicia Eyaralar and José María Fraile, who came from other corners of the wine industry to found Tandem in 2003. From the start, the vines have been farmed organically, and the winery was built with gentle winemaking techniques in mind. This ‘Casual’ white is just what the name implies, an easy everyday white that’s up for just about anything. It is made from 100% Viura, the grape of White Rioja, and known as Macabeo in France and Catalonia. Aromas show lemon balm, green apple and gardenia, with touches of rosemary, chalky soil and salty minerality. The palate is lightly creamy and overflows with white peach and apples. Acidity lands on the finish like a crashing wave of limes and apples, giving the wine a note of textural tension that sets the really good stuff apart. Serve with things like Pho and chicken soup, yellow dal, mezza platers, and white fish dishes.