Cros des Calades is a new project from Benoit and Florence of Château de la Selve in Ardèche, France, both are farmed organically, and the wines are made naturally. Benoît, who is a charming fast-talker, headed straight into the vines waxing poetically in Franglais about this wild Ardechois terroir, arguably one of the least-tamed in France, planted to rocky, rolling hillsides and peppered between national parks featuring steep, swimmable river gorges where French adventure-seekers come for their summer holidays. In terms of wine, the Ardèche is akin to the Cotes du Rhone, but more fun. There’s far less pressure here to hit certain marks of ‘typicity’, so the region has fostered winemakers like Benoit and Florence who make something fundamentally new out of Grenache and Syrah. This Cuvee – named for the local name for a donkey – has scents of fresh blueberries and blackberries, a patch of bramble after rain, and potpourri. The palate is lighter than the customary Rhone wine, and bouncy. Full of energy and raspberry and blackberry fruit but with no sharpness. Touches of black pepper, menthol, and pine come with a gentle nip of tannin. For best results, pair to Cailletes Ardechois, or a charcuterie border featuring Tomme.