At its best, Chablis is a magic trick. Simple Chardonnay grapes are tended in the vineyard and the cellar in such a way that every bit of seashell-crusted limestone minerality makes it into the finished wine, but for all its vivid freshness it also offers rich and velvety texture that reaches every corner of the palate. Famille Savary's 2023 Chablis is like this, with aromas of lime and lemon and red delicious apple before a palate with incredible tension and verve thanks to age only in stainless steel tanks, but plenty to chew on too after months of careful lees stirring in the cellar. Fresh lemon curd and peach cobbler notes lead into a clean-cut finish with salty minerality and citrus zest.