The Vicari family has been in the Marche since the 15th century. Nazzareno Vicari made his first vintage in 1990, and has since delegated winemaking to his son Vico and marketing to his daughter Valentina. Despite their relatively modest size, Vicari is a leading Verdicchio estate, an excellent example of the lighter and zestier side of the Castelli di Jesi denomination, vineyards closer to the sea. In order to give the wine a little extra textural depth to pair along with the salt, zest, and pepper aromas, the Capofila spends several months gathering texture on the lees before bottling. Together with all that spice, there’s notes of lemon, apple and pear on the nose, while the palate shows more orange and apple-sauce flavors. The finish comes with pepper and salt, making this almost too easy to pair with food. Enough zest for simple pastas, enough weight for something like halibut or other white fish, and strong-willed enough for artichokes.