Brian O'Donnell has a different perspective on Pinot Gris than most Oregon winemakers. To his way of thinking, Pinot Gris should always aspire to the classic Alsatian style, and while many wineries say that about their wines, Brian achieves his goal. Every once in a while, there's a vintage so good, so luxuriously rich and intense, that he sets aside his best juice to make a reserve Pinot Gris. 2014 is the second reserve vintage since 2000, and it's a stone cold conversation stopper of a wine. Lush aromas of apples cooked in honey, candied ginger, roasted pear and cinnamon toast. He ages this wine on the lees and treats it more or less like a Chardonnay, and after nine years the wine has taken on a beautifully waxy texture with a burst of ammeretto whipped cream and zesty orange peel on the finish.