Gavi at its best is a fresh, easygoing white wine. Gavi at its very best is like this bottle from La Raia, fresh and easygoing as any but more substantial and complex than an ordinary porch sipper. In 2003, Giorgio Rossi Cairo purchased La Raia, and quickly converted the entire 180 hectare property to biodynamic farming. This is a full-service biodynamic farm, with pastures, orchards, and crops in addition to their grapes. Wine remains the most important part of the project, and they are known as one of the great estates of Gavi. In search of the most individual wine, the must is allowed to ferment without added yeast in cool stainless tanks, clean and carefully watched but without interference. Their Pleo cuvée may be their entry level wine, but there’s a lot going on in the glass. Lemon balm, orange and lime zest notes mix with oregano, sage, and salt. Light texture with acidity that’s clean and crisp but never sharp. Cheerful lemon and orange fruit with a touch of herbs that sneak in on the finish.