The only one of Cuneaz’s wines not named for a local monster, “Les Gosses” derives from a French term for “little children” (monsters in their own right, to be sure!)—of which Nadir has three. Coincidentally, this wine contains three local varieties: 60% Vien de Nus, 25% Petit Rouge, and 15% of the little-seen Vuillermin—the father of Fumin, in fact. “Les Gosses” comes entirely from south-facing vineyards: “Bedeun” in Chambave and “Creta Platta.” Made entirely in steel, this is a classic Vallée d’Aoste lip-smacker, stuffed with juicy black cherries and crunchy plums. With electrifying acidity and a complexity-contributing edge of woodsmoke, this is perhaps the most delicious and complete wine Nadir has ever made; it’s too bad there are only 60 cases to go around!